Process 制作工程
From idea to sample.
Bunka taught a rigorous sample procedure based on completely hand-drafted patterns. But these days, most of the work is completed on two programs.
Toray Pattern Magic 2 CLO3D
Research リサーチ
I try to do as much research as I can on a project before I get settled on design details. Living in Shimokitazawa thankfully gives me easy access to some of the most interesting imported clothing in the country.
Idea 発想
Sketch out the design in detail.
Pattern Drafting パターン製図
Toray Pattern Magic 2Usually starts from a block or a sloper. Pattern Magic 2 essentially digitizes the hand-drafting process, which is why I use it more often than other CAD programs. It expedites my thinking and allows for quick offshoots for when I'm split on different approaches to the same pattern.
First Pattern 初回パターン
Toray Pattern Magic 2The first pattern is complete when the whole mess of drafting gets cleaned up and sorted out for a digital toile check.
CLO3D Mockup 3Dモックアップ
CLO3D↻ iterative loopThis software produces a faithful representation of the final product instantly and at no additional cost.
Pattern Edits パターン修正
Toray Pattern Magic 2↻ iterative loopSimple problems are corrected in the pattern editor, but deeper problems reassessed back on PM. Once corrected, the pattern is refitted as a digital toile. This iterative loop continues until all the kinks are sorted.
Toile 仮縫い
Corrected pattern is printed out, transferred to muslin sheeting, and done up into a real toile. Usually by now there aren't any surprises, but it's still an essential step to reduce errors on the final piece.
Documentation 資料作成
The production document set — the deliverables that let a factory reproduce the garment faithfully.
- Marker マーカーToray Marker Magic
- Technical Sheet 縫製仕様書Excel / Google Sheets
- Processing Instruction 加工・裁断・芯貼り指図書Excel / Google Sheets
- Sewing Process Analysis 工程分析表Pattern Magic 2
Sample サンプル
Finally a sample is sewn based on all the work that came before.